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“This country (India) is a paradise for criminals” -Charles Shobharaj

April 6, 1986. That was the day when Charles Gurumukh Sobharaj, a notorious international criminal, was arrested from a Portuguese restaurant in Panaji, the capital of Goa.  The quote above was reportedly pronounced by Shobharaj, while being interrogated by Mumbai police inspector Mr. Madhukar Shinde. Goa was the forever-favourite retreat of the bikini killer. In other words, the beautiful settings and the historical backdrop of the Goan beaches offered a safe haven for this jail- bird, who used to enchant his victims, the police officers, the lawyers (it is said that a lady lawyer who appeared for Shobaraj in the court fell for him) and the journalists all alike.  No wonder Goa became a safe place for the criminals, where the tourism industry indirectly facilitated the thriving of underground mafias. From the early 60’s the place had become the hangout of the hippies.

' You cannot blame the Goans for Sobharaj’s exploits. Like any other outlaw, he just took leverage upon the loopholes of the country’s law and order system. 'But all this is old story. The Goans are trying to forget the shady past. Hippies had become a significant minority, and the law takes care of the drug and other mafias. Those who had experienced the enticing beauty of the picturesque Konkan landscape and the friendliness of the Goan people lately, would have realised the change. And, the Goan culture which perceives life as one for celebration still holds good. Ironically, the gruesome murder of the British teenager Scarlette Eden Keeling (in February) near Anjuna beach proved a serious set back to the sincere efforts of the authorities, in proving the destination safe and serene.

Sobharaj’s interest towards India could be attributed to the great Indian theory “adhithi devo bhava”. You cannot blame the Goans for Sobharaj’s exploits. Like any other outlaw, he just took leverage upon the loopholes of the country’s law and order system

Charles Shobharaj Still in Goa?

But the Goans were not willing to let go of Sobharaj like that. They have quite skilfully “immortalized’ this man who willingly courted imprisonment for life and is now spending his days in a jail in Nepal (probably a ploy to escape the gallows that is kept ready for him in Thailand). As we reached “Okokaeiro”, a restaurant on NH 17 near the Kalungutte beach, we were welcomed on the verandah by none other than Charles Shobharaj, who was sitting on the same chair from where he was captured, with a certain kind of detachment written on his face -- in the form of a statue. We were quite startled by the Goans’ ability to take the gravity of life with cheery ease.

Traveller’s Paradise!

As soon as we landed at the Goan airport at 3.15 pm, we started off to Panaji, the capital city. On our way, we witnessed the Portuguese legacy in full swing. Goa, a meeting point of various races, religions and cultures of the East and West over the centuries, has a multi-hued and distinctive lifestyle quite different from the rest of India. There were buildings that revealed the magnificence of the bygone era, and most of the constructions here, including churches and temples were architectural splendours.
Though Vasco da Gamma had reached India in1498 breaking the trade monopoly of the Arabs, it was in 1510 that the Portuguese, under the leadership of Alphonso de Albuquerque, landed in Goa. In 1542, St. Francis Xavier the Jesuit missionary arrived in Goa with the aim of propagating Christianity in the East. By the 17th century Goa had grown to be the administrative centre of the Portuguese empire which had African port cities under its control. But the Golden Era did not last long. Persistent attacks from the Maratha army shook the foundations of the Portuguese in India. When the British colonialism made its sway over the whole of India, the Portuguese downfall was complete.  But the impact that the south European culture had on the Goans is still evident.

At 4’ O clock in the evening we reached Panaji and set off straight to Kalangutte beach, which was16 Kms away. Muralidhar, the local guide whom we met at the resort run by the Goa Tourism Corporation, took us to Hotel Germany. Since it was off season, the rent was Rs. 800 for an A/ C double room. Many tourists were seen on the pool side, lying on their back, reading books and enjoying the warm evening sun.  After the tea we went straight to the beach, which was hardly 100 meters away.  A host of restaurants offering European menu could be seen on both sides of the sandy road.

' This scenic coast, also known as Banana Beach, is one of the favourite haunts of foreign tourists. The place got its pet-name from the naked white bodies of the foreign tourists 'Tourists were seen sipping beers and having a great time. Suddenly a board placed in front of a small building caught my attention: ‘Kerala Style Ayurvedic Massage’. A basil plant placed in a pot in front and a man with a pointed beard on a chair lent an ethnic ambience to the spa. Yes, the Kerala brand of Ayurvedic massage is a well-sought- after tourism product in Goa.

On the beach there were tourists playing football, and over the waves, water scooters were fleeing hither and thither. Those who are in search of more adventures can fly over the sea by hanging on to huge balloons. Flying is made possible when the boat to which the balloon is tied starts moving in the sea. A thousand Indian rupees and a fair amount of grit are all that is required to enjoy this fun-filled flight. When we got back to the hotel after a long walk on the beach, our guide Muralidaran was waiting there with tickets for the boat ride.

The ride through the river Mandovi was worth the money spent (Rs 100 / head). It was a one-hour long ride through the river, taking in the sight of Panaji glittering in a thousand bits of multi-coloured lights. The three-storeid boat was fully equipped with live music on the upper deck, a bar restaurant on the floor below and a discotheque on the base floor. Since it was exam time across the country, there was not much rush for the boat- ride which otherwise attract a lot of domestic tourists.  After the boat-ride we went straight to the Pergola restaurant in MG road.

The Banana Beach

On the third day morning, we set off to visit the beaches near Panaji and the old Goa with our new guide Futty. At first we went to Baga beach which was near to the Kalungutte beach. This scenic coast, also known as Banana Beach, is one of the favourite haunts of foreign tourists. According to Futty, the place got its pet-name from the naked white bodies of the foreign tourists who throng the sands to get their skin tanned under the tropical sun.Behind the boulders that occupied the sea coast, were coconut groves that stretched far. If you are patient enough to wait, you can see the dolphins splashing in and out of the waves.

The Anjuna beach (about 8 Kms from Mapsa) is famous for its busy Wednesday markets. Tourists arrive here in droves to buy mementoes and to get their bodies tattooed. Some other major beaches of Goa are Arambol (50 Kms from Panaji), Miramar (3Kms), Vagator (22 kms), Donopola (7kms), the 25 Kms long Kolva (6 Kms from Mudgao), and the Palolem (37 kms from Mudgao). The Goan beaches stretch up to 100 kms in all. On one side of the hill, where the Aquada( the Portuguese word meaning water) fort and the jail constructed  by the Portughese in 1612 are situated, there is a summer home owned by  the business magnate Mr. Vijay Mallya. A view of this palace like bungalow which slides down to the bay can be had from atop the hill.

Rome of the East!

A 10-km ride from Panaji along the banks of the river Mandovi would take you to Old Goa. This city was established by Adil shah in the 16th century. Later it became the Portuguese headquarters and came to be known as the Rome of the East. There are several churches here, constructed between the 16th and 19th centuries. Of these, the Basilica of Bon Jesus (the physical remains of St.Francis Xavier is kept here), St.Catherine Cathedral, and the church of St.Francis of Assisi worth mention being the more important ones.

' The images of the barges moving quite stoically, when the city was rumbling on both sides of the river, left an indelible impression on our minds ' Light brown barges carrying iron ore were heading  towards Mudgoa port over the golden waves of Mandovi that shine in the golden splendour of the twilight. It was a sight to behold. The images of these barges moving quite stoically, when the city was rumbling on both the sides of the river, left an indelible impression on our minds.

The Dhooth Sagar waterfalls 60 kms away from Panaji, the forest reserves of Bhagawan Mahavir, Bondla and Kottigavo, the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary (Goa is also a bird watcher’s paradise) and South Goa were all yet to be visited, reminded the guide. We decided to see those places at some other time. Fatigue had overcome us. The hot day spent in travel had its say on our spirits. We had to have a good rest before moving on to Ratnagiri. So we returned to the hotel room bidding good buy to Futty.

Mango Country!

The distance between Goa and Ratnagiri in Maharashtra is 225 kms and the final 60 kms of this distance is to be covered through state highway No.4. Famous for its mangoes, the place is also the birth place of Lokmanya Tilak. Hills after hills on the way were planted with mango trees. Undulating roads that have steep ups and downs took us very often to the beauty of the extensive beaches.  The shores here have mostly black sand

Following the advice of Kulkarni, an official at the Maharashtra Tourism Office, Ratnagiri, we set off to a sea-side resort called Ganapathy Phule. The place was some 25 kms away from Ratnagiri. Leaving behind the river banks on which sand –mining boats were taking rest, farms that had hay stacks, and plantations of mango trees we reached the resort run by the Department of Maharashtra Tourism at Ganapathy Phule, at 4 o’clock. We chose to stay at the Konkani Hut close to the beach. The room tariff was Rs.1200/- (during the off-season). Most of the visitors were foreign tourists who reached here on Deccan Odyssey, a tourist package conducted on behalf of the Maharashtra Tourism department.

'We had a bath in the sea under the setting sun and a dinner with the roar of waves in the ears. As we lay relaxed in hammocks the stress on the nerves simply melted away. ' We had a rejuvenating bath in the sea under the setting sun and a dinner with the roar of waves in the ears. As we lay relaxed in hammocks strung to the coconut trees, chatting with the stars in the blue sky, the stress on the nerves simply melted away. At this domain of indescribable peace where the sea, the shore, and the sky became one, a long journey came t an end.Overcoming the temptations of the Cabodirama (Cape of Rama) and the taste of seafood specialities of the Malwan beach, we embarked on our journey back home. It was evening when we reached Panaji. Again, the saffron barges that kept moving leisurely along the breadth of the river Mandovi, caressed by its ripples.

© travelbird